Well, it appears as though I owe you folks a few posts. If you’ll allow me, I’ll just write two (or do I owe you three?) about the past couple of weeks. And by allow me, I mean humor my colloquial, conversational style, because I intend to fill you in regardless. :-p
Right! So not this past week end, or the one that preceded it, but the one that preceded that weekend, many of the people in our North Central group (ten or twelve of us, I think?) went to Xi’an, which I believe I have mentioned in posts past. Xi’an is one of China’s landmark cities, known as the start and end of the Silk Road, but probably better known as the site of the Terracotta Warriors. For those of you that are not aware, these warriors were made to protect the emperor Qin Shi Huan in the afterlife. Qin Shi Huan, the man who first unified China (though an interesting combination of military action and a legalist governing philosophy), is buried relatively nearby the Terracotta Warriors, but his tomb has not been excavated yet.
The site itself was a fair distance outside of the city, and it was very tourist oriented, which is to say that yes, the Terracotta Warriors is an iconic sigh
t not only for Xi’an but also for China and yes, some argue it’s a must-see for either Xi’an or China, but the site itself, while cool (and I certainly don’t regret going to see it) is mainly the pits (there are three excavation sites, or pits, with terracotta soldiers inside) and little else. There are actually several sites around Xi’an, of which the warriors are only one, and these sites include a hot spring and a paleolithic village, but we didn’t see these on our excursion.
On a side note, when we left the gated area around the terracotta warriors, we were – impressively, I feel – inundated with salespeople trying to sell us souvenir warriors. We literally walked out of the gates and a wave of salespeople ran up to us with identical merchandise and all talking at once.
So I admit I was a little disappointed in the Terracotta Warriors, because while I absolutely believe that not seeing iconic sights is downright silly, I often feel they are not as interesting as the lesser known and lesser visited sights. To this end, I have to say that the city of Xi’an did not disappoint in the least. 
I had the pleasure of visiting quite a few incredible places, some more heavily trafficked than others. One of the iconic sights of Xi’an city proper is the Big Goose Pagoda, but as you may be able to guess from me, I was a little underwhelmed. However, the Little Goose Pagoda had dramatically less people, and I felt the grounds around the pagoda were much more beautiful. Additionally, walking up the thirteen flights of narrow, poorly lit stairs was pretty amazing, especially as the ceiling in some places became much too low for someone of my height. It was rewarding though, as being at the top gave a good view of that section of the city.
There were actually a lot of places in Xi’an that I loved that were not the most iconic sights. The Great Mosque was a lot of fun to visit, both because I had never been to a mosque before and because the complex was a really neat mixture of Chinese and Arabic architectural influences. The path to the mosque, actually, was through a series of covered alleyways full of street vendors hawking their wares. This alone was worth visiting the area for, because it was an experience that I haven’t been able to find in Beijing (I am told this is in no small part due to the ‘cleaning up of the city’ for the Olympics).

The streets leading to and all around those covered alleyways were also full of street vendors, and this was really where the Muslim Quarter (as it is called) really shines. Many folks are in traditional head coverings, and there is just street after street of vendors with souvenirs, lamb on a stick, flat bread, and pretty much anything else you might want to eat.
One of the neatest places I went in Xi’an, though, was the Temple of the Eight Immortals: a Taoist temple still in active use. This place was very small, but it gave a very good view of what an active temple looks like (lots of incense, in case you were wondering), and it was really neat to see Taoist monks kind of doing their thing.
A few of the people in our group rode around the city wall on a bicycle. Xi’an is actually one of the few Chinese cities with it’s city wall still standing (Beijing has had several, but they’ve been torn down and replaced with major thoroughfares) though the city has expanded beyond them since it was built. You could rent a bike on the wall and just ride around it, which was a lot of fun (though some parts were unpleasantly rough).
Before we left, I was in one of the streets with street vendors (not in the Muslim Quarter) that were focused on selling art. I found one person (I think he was an art student at a nearby college) that was painting in the traditional Chinese style on the spot, and while I didn’t have time for him to paint a custom one for me (which I would have really liked, and which he offered) I did pick up one of the scrolls he had painted at some earlier time. I wish I could find someone like this in Beijing, but my search has been, as of yet, fruitless.
So that was our stay in Xi’an.
Oh, and the hostel we stayed at (located very near the South Gate) was incredibly clean, with very helpful staff and very reasonable prices.
Stay tuned for what I assume will be my next post.
